Showing posts with label sunderbans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sunderbans. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

tiger trace and time to go



Today is the last day of my residency and I've been sitting at the computer most of the morning. The doorbell has been busy. One person called to see if I was interested in a portable gas stove cooking demonstration, a man from the water company downstairs came to collect the empty bottle, and someone else came looking for a Khoj person. I managed 'no thank you', 'it's here' and 'come back at three' ... in Hindi.

I haven't told anything of the Sunderbans trip as yet and I have some photos I'd like to share, so I will add some more posts post-Kolkata. However, here is one of my favourite images.

One morning in the Sunderbans, we came across some tiger pug marks. Sambhu said they were very fresh, probably from early that morning. They emerged out of the water, across the mud and disappeared into the mangrove forest. This tiger had swum across from one island to the other, most likely in search of food, a distance of about 1 kilometre. Just a trace.

It's my last day, and there is still more to write. And much more to think about. It has been an amazing experience, or rather an accumulation of experiences, that I'm sure I'll carry with me for a long time. I farewell some good friends and look forward to meeting them again. I will return in late January to finalise and install the work for the exhibition at Harrington Arts Centre.

A huge thank you to Khoj for hosting my residency, for their generosity and in making me feel so at home here. It has been great to share many things, especially all the fantastic meals we've eaten together. I can't recall how many conversations I've had with my friends about food and cooking. At the end of the day, friends, family and food is what sustains us all. I'm very glad to have been included in theirs. Special thanks to Abhida, Smriti, Bhutu, Kaushik, Paula, Chhatra, Tamal, Kazima and Sayak.

JOY MA!



Sunday, November 29, 2009

the delta



Three days in the Sunderbans.

Water like glass. Mud mangroves boats birds. Time slows, a beautiful deceptive stillness.

Monday, November 23, 2009

early morning riser



There is a bandh tomorrow, a State-wide strike. This happened twice when I was here in 2008 and everything shuts down. Public transport, taxis, banks, offices, restaurants, the lot. Kids were playing cricket on Chowringhee Road.

I'm leaving tomorrow for a three day trip to the Sunderbans and will be picked up at 3.30am to be out of the city and on the boat to Bali Island by 6.00 am.

Blog on hold till late Thursday/early Friday.

Friday, October 30, 2009

edward and kate alkin


On Wednesday, I went to the Lower Circular Road Cemetery in search of the Alkins grave ... my great great grand- parents. It was surprisingly easy as the records held in their office go back to the early 1800's.
So there they were, together under a very precariously balanced headstone.
The inscriptions are legible and it is true that Edward died in the vicinity of the Sunderbans, at a place called Madaripore on 18th December 1895. He was fifty-three years old. Although Madaripore is to the north and east of the Sunderbans (now in Bangladesh), it is still connected to the delta and waterways of the area. So did he die in the Sunderbans or in Madaripore. Maybe he was taken there and pronounced dead.
This small detail, the date Edward died, has opened up further avenues to explore. There are a number of archives in Kolkata and as I'm here for five weeks, it might just be possible to uncover some more of this story. I'm intrigued.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

the sunderbans


This is the Sunderbans in the Bay of Bengal. Its name means 'beautiful forest'. It is vast and mostly impenetrable. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it also contains the largest tiger reserve in India that is home to around 250 tigers.

My cousin David Marland is visiting Singapore for a few days. He is an avid family historian and his visit is very timely.

He tells me that my great-great grandfather, Edward Alkin, supposedly was the Harbourmaster in Calcutta sometime in the late 1800's. Information is vague though we know that he had not been in the post very long before he died ... in the Sunderbans. He was buried there, and some time later his body was exhumed and re-buried in the Lower Circular Road Cemetery in Calcutta.